Main Course: Sunday supper, a Dinner Party, or a Romantic Evening

There's  a nostalgic quality to meats cooked for Sunday suppers that goes back to an earlier generation and big family get-togethers. They were never light meals, but they were always wonderful meals and the dishes were memorable. For me, there are few things more comforting than a richly tender cut of meat that has cooked for hours, its wonderful scent flowing from the kitchen and perfuming the house. Now, that is my heaven.

This Osso Buco is fairly traditional, but it is such an extremely delicious preparation that in this case, I let the meat and tradition speak for themselves. Serving the Osso Buco over Saffron Orzo enhances all the flavors and makes for a stunning presentation. So whether you are trying to impress friends at a weekend dinner party, treat the family to a sumptuous Sunday dinner, or create a romantic dinner for that someone special in your life, this is a great dish to make. And it's perfect for Valentine's Day.

On another note, Marrow is one of those rare treats, and Osso Buco is a great excuse to indulge. Be sure to provide little spoons for scooping the marrow out of the bones. Enjoy it spread on toasted peasant bread.

Braised Osso Buco with Gremolata

Braised Osso Buco with Gremolata and Saffron Orzo

serves 6

6 center-cut veal shanks, cut 2 inches thick (each about 12 ounces)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

¼ cup olive oil

2 ribs celery, cut into ¼-inch dice

2 carrots, cut into ¼-inch dice

1 large onion, cut into ¼-inch dice

1 tablespoon finely minced garlic

2 cups prepared marinara sauce or
Basic Tomato Sauce (page 437)

2 cups chicken broth, preferably homemade (recipe follows)

2 cups dry white wine

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves, or ½ teaspoon dried

Saffron Orzo (recipe follows), for serving

Gremolata (recipe follows), for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

2. Sprinkle the veal shanks generously with salt and pepper.

3. Heat the oil in a heavy flameproof casserole over medium heat. Add the veal shanks and cook until browned all over, 6 to 8 minutes per side. Transfer them to a plate and set it aside.

4. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the celery, carrots, and onion to the casserole. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, adding the garlic during the last 5 minutes.

5. Add the marinara sauce, broth, wine, and thyme to the casserole, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.

6. Return the veal shanks to the casserole. (The sauce should reach about halfway up the meat.) Cover, transfer to the oven, and bake until the meat is very tender, 2 to 2½ hours. (Do not overcook the meat.)

7. Remove the casserole from the oven and carefully skim the fat from the surface, using a metal spoon. Serve the Osso Buco over Saffron Orzo in shallow bowls, and sprinkle a tablespoon of Gremolata over each portion. Don't forget the small spoons for scooping out the lush marrow.  

Gremolata:

makes about ²⁄³ cup

Gremolata is a fresh condiment traditionally served with Osso Buco. The combination
of parsley, lemon zest, and garlic is a refreshing, unexpected contrast when sprinkled over the meat. It adds to the dramatic and complex flavors of the dish.

½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

Finely grated zest of 2 large lemons

2 tablespoons finely minced garlic

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl, and toss with a fork. For the freshest taste, use within 2 to 3 hours. 

Saffron Orzo and Basic Chicken Broth on the next page...