Sun, Jul 20, 2008

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Tuesday Taste Test: When God Gives You Lamb, Make Lamb Burgers

 

I was persuing New York magazine's "best new burgers" list the other day and paused at what was described as a "drippy lamb-and-beef burger" on Prune's lunch menu. Mmmm...drippy sounds delicious, I thought.

Then, a couple days later, I was flipping through my Rachael Ray 30-Minute Meals cookbook (i know, i know, but I secretly love her), and I came across a recipe for lamb-and-beef burgers called (what else?) "Shish-Ka-Burgers."

God is trying to tell me something, I thought.

Prune's drippy lamb-and-beef burgerPrune's drippy lamb-and-beef burgerThis got me wondering about lamb. Specifically, why I'd never even considered cooking it before now, why I couldn't recall ever having eaten it at anyone's house, and why I'd probably only tasted it once or twice off someone else's plate.

Furthermore, I thought, why don't American Jews eat more lamb? What about that passage in the Bible, the one about the paschal lamb, Exodus 12, to be exact:

 Speak ye unto all the congregation of Israel, saying, In the tenth day of this month they shall take to them every man a lamb, according to the house of their fathers, a lamb for a house:

 And if the household be too little for the lamb, let him and his neighbour next unto his house take it according to the number of the souls; every man according to his eating shall make your count for the lamb.

(And on and on) Lamb being such a symbolic food for Jews, you'd think that it would be a traditional Jewish dish all around, right up there with brisket and tzimmes and matzoh ball soup. But, while Sephardic Jews tend to eat a lot of lamb, Ashkenazic Jews don't.

I turned to the lamb section of How to Cook Everything to see what Mark Bittman had to say about it:

...demand for lamb has never been high, nor have prices, so producers have had little incentive to "rationalize" production--that is, to make it factory-like, as they have with beef and pork. 

He goes on to say:

...because lamb is so small...many cuts contain several muscles, meaning you get a variety of tastes and textures, an unusual pleasure.

Too cute to eat?Too cute to eat?Well, this is all sounded good to me. I felt that I may have just stumbled upon a well-kept secret and was about to discover a new meat that would transform my life. But there had to be a catch. There had to be a reason why more Americans don't eat lamb, why they don't sell lamb at my local grocery store.

I decided to start with the Rachael Ray recipe. Not only did it mirror the burger I came across on the "best new burgers" list by being both lamb and beef, it seemed a pretty tame way to introduce myself to lamb.

Rachael's recipe is simple:  

Combine ½ lb lamb, ½ lb beef, 2 cloves minced garlic, and 4 shakes of Worcestershire sauce. Form into four patties. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and grill for 5 to 6 minutes on each side. Top with sliced, grilled green pepper, onion, and portobello mushroom (that's the shish-ka-bob part). You could also make these in a skillet and cook them for less time on each side, and I think topping them with a dollop of Greek-style yogurt would be nice, maybe mix some fresh chopped mint in there.

The verdict? The burgers were definitely "drippy." They were incredibly juicy and I really did enjoy the lamb flavor in there with the beef. Would I make them again? I'm not sure. There's still something about lamb that I just don't love. It could be that it's a little bit gamey, could be that I just didn't grow up eating it, or maybe I just can't get the image of cute lil' Lambchop out of my head.



Dale Raben is a writer/editor/aspiring housewife living in Brooklyn, originally from South Florida. She's a children's book review editor and is currently pursuing a master's in English Literature and planning her


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Helen Jupiter


Am I the only Ashkenaz...

...who grew up eating lamb chops regularly?





Lkoenig23


Great post, Dale. 

Great post, Dale.  Shish-ka-burgers are one thing...but what would Shiksa-burgers taste like?





gogityershinebox


Lamb Chops

I'm an Ashkenazic Jew whose mother made meals with one of two things as the meat...chicken and lamb.  Once in a while, the occasional steak to appease my father, or turkey...which she would lie to my father and tell him its chicken (because he doesn't like turkey).

As for lamb, I grew up on lamb chops, and was never a huge fan.  I'd douse them in ketchup often.

Weird thing though, is these days, I'm craving lamb.





Jim Talbott


Lamby

I'm a big fan of the lamb. One fantastic side benefit is that you can eat the ground lamb raw, snacking on it when you make your kibbe (ground lamb with onion, bulgur and spices). My three-year-old daughter really, really likes the kibbe.

I also make lamb cholent, which is very popular with the young people, and I'm making lamb stew with eggplant for shabbos dinner tonight.

Overall, lamb has a very appealing taste, and the fact that a lot of it is grass fed makes it a reasonably environmentally responsible option... no need to support big corn.





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