Mon, Dec 01, 2008

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Jewcy Book Club

This week:
and My Jesus YearDumbfounded
Welcome Authors
Benyamin Cohen
&
Matthew Rothschild
who are posting all week.
Coming up:
  • 12/08:
    Seth Greenland

PICKLED

Rosh Hashanah Dinner Menu: Traditional Brisket

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Growing up in Texas I learned a thing or two about brisket. The smoked BBQ variety, like Thanksgiving turkey, has a tendancy to dry out, and I recall feeling disappointed by this on more than one occasion. When faced with a dry brisket the only solution is to drench it in BBQ sauce. Since the traditional Jewish brisket already comes that way this is never an issue. It's slow-cooked in sauce so you'd have to do something really special to dry it out.

Tough cuts of meat should be slow-cooked so the fat gelatinizes, pervades the meat, and it begins to fall apart and tenderize. Adding acid to the sauce also helps break down the meat. This explains why many recipes call for ketchup, and those scary, really old-fashioned ones for Coca Cola. Adding soda to meat freaks me out, so I had to bypass more than one grandmother's recipe. You can make this dish one or two days ahead and refrigerate. The longer the meat sits in the sauce, the more it will break down and tenderize.

Brisket: Saucey and delicious.Brisket: Saucey and delicious.

And check out our resident Impulsive Gourmand's Top Five Ways to Eat Leftover Brisket.

Click here to return to the Rosh Hashanah dinner table for more symbolic dishes.



Anonymous


Just my preference





Anonymous


Indulge a somewhat anal cook and allow me a couple of corrections.

1. Slow cooking doesn't make meat tender by "allowing the fat to gelatinize". Fat will melt at all levels of heat, and gelatin is a protein and has nothing to do with fat.

2. Low moist heat (like braising, which can be done on a stovetop or in an oven, but way lower than 375) allows connective tissue to break down and protein starnds to relax, rather than tighten. This is what makes properly coaxed meat become tender.

3. Contrary to popular opinion, marinades do little to tenderize meat. Among other reasons, they don't get much past the surface, so if you have something with the right pH, you may succeed in making the outermost layer a little mushy, but that's it.
As in love, attention and patience are the way to succulence.